Part II- Kerala with Melisa and Evan

On December 28th my mother and brother made the long 36-hour journey from California to Ahmedabad. Alexander and I were there to greet them at the airport. I could barely contain my excitement when they exited through the terminal’s glass doors! It was shockingly surreal to see them in the flesh; like worlds colliding.

We spent our first week together in Ahmedabad. Alexander and I served as tour guides showing Mom and Evan our favorite corners of the city. We visited the famous Gandhi Ashram, the busy market of Manek Chowk, the renowned Calico Museum, intricate Jain temples, exquisite Mosques, well-stocked khadi bandhars, the congested New City, and NID’s lush campus. A morning Heritage Walk gave us a well-informed tour of the Old City’s tangled streets and its historic architecture. On New Years, the four of us celebrated with a bottle of Brut that Mom managed to smuggle through airport security.

On the morning of January 2nd, we boarded a plane to the state of Kerala, a narrow, fertile strip on the southwest coast. After a five-hour layover in Mumbai, we landed in Kochi (Cochin). Located in central Kerala, Kochi consists of a cluster of islands and narrow peninsulas and is famous for its many historical sites. The region’s maritime contact with other cultures over the centuries has greatly contributed to Kochi’s eclectic scenery in the form of Syrian-Christian churches, Dutch and Portuguese Heritage homes, Raj-era game lodges, a complex system of Chinese fishing nets, streets reminiscent of Medieval Holland and a visible Jewish community.

The four of us chose to stay in the older, quieter district of Fort Cochin, which is linked to the bustling city of Ernakulam by a bridge. We lodged at a beautiful, calming guesthouse that was within walking distance of nearly all our destinations. Our three days in the area were spent exploring the tranquil streets and absorbing the relaxed, tropical vibe. We saw the oldest church in India, watched the cantilevered Chinese fishing nets in action, strolled along the sunny, sea-bordered promenades, examined the graphic murals of Mattancherry Palace, and gazed upon the crumbling gravestones of the Dutch cemetery. Our last day was spent in a region of the peninsula known as “Jew Town,” an area that is known for the antique and spice shops that line the narrow roads, as well as the centrally located Pardesi Synagogue. First built in 1568 and later re-built by the Dutch in 1664, the synagogue is tucked away at the dead end of one of the town’s many labyrinthine streets. It features a gold pulpit, colorful glass chandeliers, and a floor made up of hand-painted, blue and white tiles imported from China. On our last night we enjoyed a traditional Kathakali performance (a dramatized presentation of a play- usually based on Hindu epics such as the Ramayana, the Mahabharata, and the Puranas- acted out by heavily made-up men wearing extravagant costumes).

Much to my delight, our sweat-inducing adventures were punctuated with excellent meals and retreats into the sanctuary of ocean-view hotels, where we sipped on sodas and cold beer. My favorite dishes included a seasoned snapper steamed in banana leaves and a North Indian inspired fish thali.

On January 7th Alexander, Mom, Evan and I took a morning taxi to the town of Alappuzha (Alleppey). Encompassing laidback markets, groves of palm trees and a system of interconnecting canals, Alleppey was once one of the best-known ports along the Malabar Coast. The four of us stayed outside the town, on the banks of the backwaters, in a cluster of bamboo huts. We spent the day swinging in hammocks strung between palm trees and watching dozens of impressive houseboats drift down the river.

The following morning we boarded our very own houseboat, complete with a personal chef, captain, and navigator. For twenty-four hours we drifted along the network of waterways that fringe the coast, winding their way inland. As the sun made its arch across a cloud-studded dome of blue sky, we passed palm-fringed lakes, lush rice patties, small villages, mosques, temples, children on their way to school, men diving for fish and prawns, and women washing piles of sodden clothes. When we passed a small stall built into the riverbank, Alexander bought a chopped coconut with a pink straw. We played gin rummy and read until our chef presented us with a delicious dinner of cooked spicy fish, vegetables and fried plantains. When twilight descended, and the river water turned ink black, we docked on the bank and counted fireflies before falling asleep to the sound of lapping water.

Our adept captain returned us to Alleppey before noon the next day. From there we took another long taxi ride further along the coast to Thiruvanathapuram (Trivandrum). Trivandrum has a reputation as one of India’s most pleasant cities for its temples, museums and gardens. Mom, Evan, Alexander and I spent a full three days sampling new foods, shopping in the local markets, and visiting the Palace Museum. The highlights of our stay included Patayam, a natural health food restaurant serving multiple mini-courses and tiny shots of blended fruit, and the Swathi Sangeethotsavan Music Festival, where we heard Master Balamuralilkrishna perform carnatic vocals with a violin, mridangam and ghatam.

On the 12th it was time to say goodbye. Alexander and I flew north while Melisa and Evan braved the journey back to the States. All in all, our two weeks together were terrific, but our apartment in Ahmedabad has started to feel a little empty!